Tag Archives: HSA

FIRE Tax Strategies for Beginners

Are you new to financial independence (FI or FIRE)? Are you steeped in financial independence, but confused about tax optimization?

If so, this is the post for you. This post works on the 80/20 principle: sure, there’s a ton of knowledge, expertise, and hacks out there, but oftentimes 80 percent of the benefit can come from 20 percent of the knowledge.

But first, a caveat: none of this is advice for your specific situation, but rather, this comprises a list of the top four moves I believe those pursuing financial independence should consider. No blog post (this one included) is a substitute for your own and your advisors analysis and judgement of your own situation.

ONE: Contribute to Your Workplace Retirement Plan Up to the Employer Match

Many, though not all, employer sponsored 401(k)s, 403(b)s, 457s offer some matching of employee contributions. The TSP (for federal government employees) does as well. For example, a 401(k) plan might provide a 25 percent matching contribution up to 6 percent of compensation. Thus, if a plan participant makes $50,000 per year, to get the full match, the employee must put 6 percent of her annual salary, $3,000 total, into the 401(k) in order to get the full employer match, which in this case would be $750 per year (computed as $50,000 times 6% contribution rate times 25% match rate).

In our example above, the employee would be foolish not to contribute up to at least the 6 percent matched contribution rate.

Your top priority in retirement planning is to contribute up to the point of your employer match in your employer retirement account! Money should be contributed there before it is placed anywhere else. An employer match is an instantaneous, guaranteed return on your investment. No one seeking financial independence can afford to pass that up.

Watch me explain the 401(k) employer match.

Here are some additional considerations.

Vesting

In many plans, the employee is not fully “vested” in the employer match, but only becomes vested after a period of time. Employee contributions are immediately vested, but employer contributions may take some time to vest (i.e., become the property of the employee).

Some plans have “cliff” vesting where the matching contribution is unvested (i.e., not the employee’s money) for three years, at which point the matching contributions (and their earnings) become “fully vested” (i.e., fully the employee’s money).

More common is a graduated vesting schedule. Sometimes it is 20% vested at 2 years and then 20% more each year after, and there are plenty of varieties of graduated vesting.

It is important to understand the vesting rules in your particular plan. That said, a waiting period to vest does not change my view. Contribute to your employer plan at least to the level of the matching contributions! First, the matching level is usually a fairly modest level. If you can’t contribute to that level you may need to re-examine all your expenses to give yourself a decent shot at financial independence and retirement.

Second, the odds are actually pretty good you will stay with that employer to partially or fully vest and capture some or all of the matching contribution benefits. With the rise of technology enabled virtual work, you might even move and keep your job. So be aware of how your plan vests, but make sure you are contributing to the level required to get the full employer match!

Timing

Many employers match pay period by pay period, instead of only once or twice a year. What that means for you is that you should be careful not to over-contribute to your 401(k) or other employer retirement plan early in the year.

Currently (as of 2021), the employee contribution limit on a 401(k) is $19,500 for those under 50 years old. An employee might have a spouse earning money or otherwise have cash sufficient such that they do not need to take a salary early in the year. Thus, they may consider contributing a very large percentage of their salary to their 401(k) early in the year until they reach the maximum of $19,500, in order to earn more time for tax-deferred growth.

Unfortunately, this strategy will cost employees matching contributions in the later pay periods during the year. In each of the later pay periods, the employee will contribute 0 percent of their salary, meaning there will be nothing for the employer to match.

Make sure you know how your employer’s plan matches and structure your employee contributions to maximize the employer match you receive.

401(k) Auto-Enrollment

Many employer retirement plans automatically enroll new employees into their 401(k) or other plan. This is to ensure employees don’t lose out on some money simply because they never filled out the paperwork.

Whenever you join a new employer, you need to learn about the plan and ensure you are contributing at the right level. There are instances where the auto-enrollment contribution percentage is less than the employer matching contribution percentage, so be sure to take action, and if necessary, change your contribution percentage.

Traditional or Roth

In many plans, the employee does not have a choice – employee contributions are “traditional” deductible contributions. Increasingly, plans are offering the Roth option where the contribution is not deductible today, but the contribution and its growth/earnings are tax-free in the future.

This post addresses the traditional versus Roth issue. But for now, it suffices to say that contributing at the level that receives the full employer match must be your top wealth building priority.

Resource

Your workplace retirement plan should have a PDF document called a “Summary Plan Description” available in your workplace benefits online portal. Reviewing that document will help you figure out the contours of your 401(k) or other workplace retirement plan.

TWO: Establish a Roth IRA

For a primer on Roth IRAs, please read my Ode to the Roth IRA. Roth IRAs, like traditional IRAs are “individual.” You establish one with a financial institution separate from your employer.

Generally speaking, a Roth IRA gives you tax-free growth, and if done correctly, money withdrawn from a Roth IRA is both tax and penalty free.

There is no better account to hold in retirement than a Roth IRA. Why not start one today (2021), when (a) federal income tax rates are at historic lows and (b) Roth IRA contributions give you an immediate emergency preparedness benefit.

Roth IRA contributions can be withdrawn tax and penalty free at any time for any reason! The Roth IRA is the only retirement account that offers unfettered, tax-free access to prior contributions. Note, however, in most cases the best Roth IRA strategy is to keep money in the Roth IRA for as long as possible (so it continues to grow tax free!).

Every working and retired American should ask themselves whether they have a Roth IRA. If they do not have one, they should ask why that is. For those who do not currently have a Roth IRA, now is as good a time as any to consider a Roth IRA contribution (if you qualify), a Backdoor Roth IRA, or a Roth conversion.

THREE: Contribute to an HSA to the Maximum Allowed If You are Offered a HDHP and the HDHP Works for You

A health savings account is a very powerful saving vehicle. You have access to it if you have a high deductible health plan. To have an HDHP through your employer, you need to determine (i) if your employer offers a HDHP and (ii) whether the HDHP is appropriate medical insurance for you.

If you do not have employer provided insurance, you may be able to obtain an HDHP in the individual marketplace.

Let’s assume your employer offers an HDHP and you determine it is appropriate for you. At that point, you need to prioritize contributing the maximum to the HSA (second only to receiving the employer match in your 401(k) or other retirement plan and establishing a Roth IRA). You receive an upfront income tax deduction for the money you contribute. If the funds in your HSA are used to pay qualified medical expenses, or are used to reimburse you for qualified medical expenses, the contributions and the earnings/growth are tax-free when paid out of the HSA. This tax-friendly combination means the HSA should be a high priority.

Here are a few additional considerations:

Payroll Taxes

The HSA has an additional benefit. Contributions made by an employee through payroll deductions are federal payroll tax deductible (unlike contributions to employer retirement plans). To get this additional benefit, you must contribute through an employer payroll deduction. Writing a check to your HSA only creates an income tax deduction.

State Income Taxes

In California and New Jersey, HSAs are treated as taxable accounts. Thus, in these states there are no state income tax deductions for contributions to an HSA. Furthermore, dividends, interest and other realized income and gains generated by HSA assets are subject to state income taxes. While detrimental, the federal income tax and payroll benefits are so powerful that even residents of these states should highly prioritize HSA contributions.

Employer Contributions

Check to see if your employer offers an employer contribution to your HSA. Many do. When the employer does, the employee leaves free money on the table if they do not enroll in the HDHP.

Reimbursements

In most cases, it is advisable to (i) pay current medical costs out of your own pocket (your checking account and other taxable accounts) and (ii) record and track these medical expenses. Leaving the money in the HSA allows it to grow tax-free!

Years later when the money has grown, you can reimburse yourself tax-free from your HSA for the previously incurred costs, as there is no time limit on reimbursements. In most cases, there should be sufficient previous medical expenses that can be reimbursed tax-free from the HSA. Note that only qualified medical expenses incurred after you are first covered by the HDHP are eligible for tax-free reimbursement.

FOUR: Save, Save, Save!!!

My last recommendation is simple: save, save, save! Are there ways to do it in a tax-efficient manner? Absolutely! But the absolute most important consideration is the act of saving and investing itself. Between retirement plans, lack of a payroll tax, and favored dividend and capital gain tax rates, saving and investing are often tax efficient without trying to be.

More Tax Optimization

Maybe you’ve got the basics down and want to do more tax optimization. Understanding that nothing on this (or any other) blog is advice tailored to your situation, here are some posts that can get your wheels turning regarding tax planning.

Using your tax return as a springboard to tax planning

Small Business Retirement Plans

Roth Conversions for the Self-Employed

What to Do if You Don’t Qualify for a Backdoor Roth IRA

Conclusion

Here are the top four tax moves I believe FI beginners should consider:

First, contribute enough to your 401(k)/employer plan to get the full match

Second, establish a Roth IRA

Third, max out an HSA

Fourth, Save, Save, Save

Of course, this post is not tailored for any particular taxpayer. Please consult with your own tax advisor(s) regarding your own tax matters.

FI Tax Guy can be your financial planner! Find out more by visiting mullaneyfinancial.com

Follow me on Twitter: @SeanMoneyandTax

This post is for entertainment and educational purposes only. It does not constitute accounting, financial, investment, legal, or tax advice. Please consult with your advisor(s) regarding your personal accounting, financial, investment, legal, and tax matters. Please also refer to the Disclaimer & Warning section found here.

Sean on the Earn & Invest Podcast

Really enjoyed this year-end tax planning conversation with Doc G on the Earn & Invest podcast. Stay tuned to the end for some candid behind the scenes podcast recording.

https://www.earnandinvest.com/episodes-2/year-end-tax-moves-that-count

FI Tax Guy can be your financial advisor! Find out more by visiting mullaneyfinancial.com

Follow me on Twitter: @SeanMoneyandTax

This post (and this podcast episode) is for entertainment and educational purposes only. It does not constitute accounting, financial, investment, legal, or tax advice. Please consult with your advisor(s) regarding your personal accounting, financial, investment, legal, and tax matters. Please also refer to the Disclaimer & Warning section found here.

An Ode to the Roth IRA

It won’t surprise many to find out that a tax-focused financial planner is fond of the Roth IRA. What might surprise you is that Coronavirus has caused me to reconsider the Roth IRA. It turns out that the Roth IRA is even better than I originally thought. We will get to that in short order. But first, a brief review of the advantages of a Roth IRA.

Tax Free Growth

Amounts in Roth IRAs grow tax free. Considering many Americans may now live into their 80s, 90s, and beyond, this is a tremendous benefit.

The only caveat is that in order for all distributions from Roth IRAs to be tax and penalty free, they generally have to be either (a) a return of contributions or of sufficiently aged conversions (see below), or (b) a distribution of earnings made in the Roth IRA (or other amounts in the Roth IRA) at a time when the owner of the account is 59 ½ or older and has owned a Roth IRA for at least five years.

The rules for ordering distributions out of a Roth IRA generally provide that contributions come out first, and then the oldest conversions come out next. This means that in many cases Roth IRA distributions, even those occurring before age 59 ½, are tax and penalty free.

N.B. Generally speaking, you want to only take a distribution from a Roth IRA before age 59 ½ if it is either (i) a serious emergency or (ii) part of a well crafted, very intentional financial plan.

Ease of Administration and Withdrawal

There are many financial institutions that provide Roth IRAs. Investment expenses in low-cost index funds at financial institutions that provide Roth IRAs are approaching zero. Vanguard, Fidelity, and Schwab are among the very good providers of low-cost Roth IRAs (and there are others).

It is also relatively easy to access money inside a Roth IRA. This makes the Roth IRA a great account to have in an emergency. Of course, it is generally best to leave money inside a Roth IRA to let it grow tax free, but it is good to know that you can access money in a Roth IRA relatively easily if an emergency arises.

Tax Free Withdrawals of Contributions

This is a great benefit of the Roth IRA. Contributions to a Roth IRA can be withdrawn at any time for any reason tax and penalty free. Further, the first money deemed distributed from a Roth IRA is a contribution. Here is a quick example:

Mark is 35 years old in 2025. He made $6,000 contributions to his Roth IRA in each of 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, and 2024 (for $30,000 total). In 2025, when his Roth IRA is worth $41,000, Mark withdraws $10,000 from his Roth IRA in 2025. All $10,000 will be deemed to be a return of contributions, and thus entirely tax free and penalty free.

The only exception is a taxpayer favorable exception: a timely withdrawal of an excess contribution (and related earnings) occurs before regular contributions are considered withdrawn.

N.B. Roth 401(k)s, 403(b)s, and 457s have different distribution rules — most pre-age 59 ½ distributions will take out some taxable earnings.

Tax Free Withdrawals of Sufficiently Aged Converted Amounts

If you convert an amount into a Roth IRA, you start a five year clock as of January 1st of the year of the conversion. Quick example:

Mike is 35 years old in 2020. Mike converts $10,000 from a traditional IRA to a Roth IRA on July 2, 2020. His five year conversion clock starts January 1, 2020. On January 1, 2025, Mike can withdraw the entire $10,000 he converted in 2020 tax and penalty free.

This feature of the Roth IRA, the tax free withdrawal of sufficiently aged conversions, is the basis for the Roth Conversion Ladder strategy. Sufficiently aged converted amounts are deemed to come out after contributions are exhausted and before more recent conversions and earnings come out.

No Required Minimum Distributions

During an account holder’s lifetime, there are no required minimum distributions from a Roth IRA. You can live to 150 and never be required to take money from a Roth IRA. Other than an HSA, no other retirement account has this feature!

N.B. Roth 401(k)s, 403(b)s, and 457s have required minimum distributions.

Creditor Protection

In federal bankruptcy proceedings, Roth IRAs are (as of 2020), protected up to $1,362,800.

Where there can be differences in liability protection are state general creditor claims (i.e., creditor protection in non-bankruptcy situations). In some states, Roth IRAs receive a level of creditor protection similar to that of ERISA plans. Generally, such protection is absolute against all creditors except for an ex-spouse or the IRS.

In other states, Roth IRAs receive no or limited creditor protection. In my home state of California, Roth IRAs are only creditor protected up to the amount necessary to provide for you and your dependents in your retirement (as determined by the court). Such protection is valuable but hardly airtight.

A Sneaky Way to Contribute More to Your Retirement

Yes, in theory everyone should save for retirement based on exacting calculations (i.e., I estimate I need $X in retirement, so based on projections I save $A in traditional accounts and $B in Roth accounts this year). That’s the theory.

In practice, it’s “I maxed out this account and that account” or “I put $C into this account and $D into that account.” There isn’t that much wrong with how we practically save for retirement, as long as we are saving sufficient amounts for retirement.

But not all “maxing out” is created equal. We know this because if Jane has $100,000 in a traditional IRA and Mary has $100,000 in a Roth IRA, who has more wealth? Mary! Unless Jane can always be in a zero percent income tax bracket, Mary has more than Jane, even though they both nominally have $100,000.

A Great Account to Leave to Heirs

While non-spouse heirs will have to take taxable required distributions from inherited IRAs (in many cases beginning in 2020 they will need to drain the account within 10 years of death), heirs are never taxed on distributions from Roth IRAs. This makes a Roth IRA a great account to leave to your heirs.

Compare with Other Retirement Accounts

No other retirement account combines ease of administration and withdrawal, low costs, significant tax benefits, creditor protection, and great emergency access the way the Roth IRA does. Most workplace retirement plans have some restrictions on withdrawals. Traditional account withdrawals do not have the tax advantages of a Roth IRA. Distributions from a traditional IRA, even one at a low-cost, easy to use discount brokerage, will trigger ordinary income taxes, and possible penalties, if withdrawn for emergency use.

Financial Planning Objectives

Personal finance is indeed personal. But I submit the following: pretty much every individual has some desire (and/or need) to not work at some point in his/her lifetime and every individual needs to be prepared for emergencies. Further, these are two very important financial planning objectives for most, if not all, individuals.

If the above is true, then we must ask “which account type best supports the combination of these two pressing financial planning objectives?” It appears to me that the answer is clearly the Roth IRA.

None of this is to say that a Roth IRA is the only way to plan for retirement and plan for emergencies, but rather, it is to say that, generally speaking, a Roth IRA ought to be a material element in such planning. Other tools, such as other retirement accounts, insurances, investments in taxable accounts, and sufficiently funded emergency funds are likely needed in addition to a Roth IRA.

Retirement Accounts and Emergencies

Let’s examine how a Roth IRA might help someone facing a very serious emergency.

Picture Jack, who is 52 years old, and has a full time job. He has $1M in a traditional 401(k) and $10,000 in cash in a taxable account. That’s it. Then picture Chuck, also 52 with a full time job. Chuck has $700,000 in a traditional 401(k), $250,000 in a Roth IRA, and $10,000 in cash.

Who is better situated to deal with an emergency? Far and away the answer is Chuck. 401(k)s are difficult to access in an emergency. First of all, the 401(k) plan might not allow in-service distributions, and it might not allow taking out a loan.

Even if the 401(k) allows in-service distributions, distributions from 401(k)s are immediately taxable, and often subject to penalties (10% federal, 2.5% in California, for example) if you are under age 59 ½. Loans, while not immediately taxable, can become taxable if not paid back.

Long story short, a 401(k) may be a tough nut to crack in an emergency.

What about a Roth IRA? In Chuck’s case, he can access his prior Roth IRA contributions and sufficiently aged contributions tax and penalty free at any time for any reason! And his Roth IRA is easy to access, particularly if it is at a low-cost discount brokerage.

Not all emergencies will look exactly like the Coronavirus emergency, and many of them will be individual emergencies, not global pandemics. The best, most accessible type of tax advantaged retirement account for an emergency is generally a Roth IRA. And it may be the case that your emergency fund is not sufficient to tide you over, so having that Roth IRA backup can be very valuable.

When you combine tax-free growth, no requirement to take required minimum distributions during the account holder’s lifetime, and the best emergency access of any tax-advantaged retirement account, it is difficult to see why working adults should not have at least some money in a Roth IRA.

When a Roth IRA Doesn’t Make Sense

The short answer is: not often! I struggle to come up with profiles of individuals that would not benefit from having some amount in a Roth IRA.

I can think of two profiles. The first, a rare case, is someone with very large legal liabilities such that all of their wealth would benefit from the creditor protections offered by an ERISA retirement plan (such as a 401(k)) and who needs almost all of their wealth shielded from creditors.

First, if you have built up 6 figures or more in wealth, having creditors able to claim your entire wealth is relatively rare. Second, in most cases, good insurance coverage, including adequate medical insurance, professional liability insurance (as applicable), home and automobile insurance, and personal umbrella liability insurance, should protect the vast majority of people such that they could withstand any liability exposure caused by having money in a Roth IRA instead of an ERISA protected plan.

The second profile is someone with incredibly high income currently and very little anticipated income in the future (such that their future tax rate is much lower than today’s rate). This too is a bit of a unicorn – people with high income today tend to have high income tomorrow (even in the FI community). And even if you anticipate being in a lower tax bracket tomorrow than you are today (a) that is simply a guess (we don’t know what future tax rates will be) and (b) you still benefit from the emergency access and years of tax free growth that a Roth IRA provides.

Health Savings Accounts

It will also come as no surprise that I am fond of health savings accounts. Health savings accounts share some of the attributes that make the Roth IRA such a winner for both retirement savings and emergency planning.

But, there are some drawbacks. First, the distribution ordering rules are not as taxpayer friendly. While it may be the case that you have sufficient old medical expenses that you can reimburse yourself for (and thus not pay tax and a penalty on the HSA distribution), that is not always going to be the case, and even if it is, does add a layer of complexity.

Second, the HSA is not for everyone. If a high deductible health plan is not good medical insurance for you, an HSA is generally off the table.

So, that leaves the HSA as a fantastic option for those who qualify for and use a high deductible health plan (and usually an option that should be part of a comprehensive financial plan if you use a HDHP). But it also means that the HSA is not quite as good as a tool for the combination of retirement saving and emergency planning.

Conclusion

Assuming that an individual (a) has retirement planning and emergency preparedness as financial planning objectives and (b) is not in a position where legal liabilities would cripple them without ERISA creditor protection, it is hard to argue against having at least some material amount in a Roth IRA.

Every American working adult should ask whether they have a Roth IRA, and if they do not have one, they should ask why that is. All working adults should strongly consider a Roth IRA contribution, a Backdoor Roth IRA, and/or a Roth conversion in 2020.

FI Tax Guy can be your financial advisor! Find out more by visiting mullaneyfinancial.com

Follow me on Twitter: @SeanMoneyandTax

This post is for entertainment and educational purposes only. It does not constitute accounting, financial, investment, legal, or tax advice. Please consult with your advisor(s) regarding your personal accounting, financial, investment, legal, and tax matters. Please also refer to the Disclaimer & Warning section found here.

Top 5 HSA Tips

For those with a health savings account, December is a great time to review how it has been used and to see if there are ways to better optimize the account.

One: Let it Grow!!!

When it comes to HSAs, often the best advice is Let it Grow, Let it Grow!!! Sing it to the tune of the popular Disney movie song if it helps you to remember.

Adding an “r” and a “w” would make Elsa a tremendous HSA advisor.

Spend HSA money only if one of the following two adjectives apply: DIRE or ELDERLY. Those neither in a dire situation nor elderly should think twice before spending HSA money! Instead, Let it Grow!

The tax benefits of an HSA are so powerful that funds should stay in the HSA (to keep growing tax free) and only be removed in dire (medical or financial) circumstances or by the elderly. Unless you leave your HSA to your spouse or a charity, HSAs are not great assets of leave to heirs. Thus, HSAs are great to spend down in your later years (after years of tax-free growth).

Two: Max Out Payroll Contributions by December 31st

While you can contribute via non-payroll contribution by April 15, 2020 for 2019, contributing to your HSA through payroll deductions is generally optimal since it secures both an income tax deduction and a payroll tax deduction for the money contributed.

If you didn’t max out your HSA through payroll deductions in 2019 and your employer allows HSA payroll deductions, write the check to your HSA in early 2020 (for 2019) and set up your 2020 payroll elections so as to max out your HSA through payroll deductions in 2020.

Three: Review HSA Investment Allocation

Those with low-cost diversified investment choices in their HSA are generally well advised to invest in higher growth assets inside their HSAs. The HSA is a great tax-protected vehicle. That tax protection is best used for high growth assets.

Those who have invested their HSA funds solely or mostly in cash should consider reassessing their HSA investment strategy.

Four: Track Medical Expenses

Medical expenses incurred after coverage begins under a high deductible health plan (a “HDHP”) can be reimbursed to you from an HSA many years in the future. There is no time limit on the reimbursement. Unless you are elderly, long-delayed reimbursement (instead of directly paying medical expenses with a HSA) is usually the tax-optimal strategy. Keep a digital record of your medical expenses and receipts to facilitate reimbursements out of the HSA many years in the future.

Five: Properly Report HSA Income (CA, NJ, NH, TN)

HSAs are tax-protected vehicles for federal income tax purposes and in most states. On your federal tax return, you need to report your HSA contributions and distributions (see Form 8889). However, you are not taxed on the interest, dividends, and capital gains earned in the HSA, and you do not need to report these amounts.

It is very different if you live in California and New Jersey. Neither California nor New Jersey recognize HSAs as having any sort of state income tax protection. They are simply treated as taxable accounts in those states. In preparing your California or New Jersey state tax return, you must (1) increase your federal wages for any excluded HSA contributions, (2) remove any deduction you took for HSA contributions (non-payroll contributions to your HSA), and (3) report (and pay state income tax on) your HSA interest, dividends, capital gains, and capital losses.

This last step will generally require accessing your HSA account online and pulling all of the income generating activity, including asset sales, in order to properly report it on your California or New Jersey tax return.

Tennessee and New Hampshire do not impose a conventional income tax, but do tax residents on interest and dividends above certain levels. HSA interest and dividends are included in the interest and dividends subject to those taxes.

FI Tax Guy can be your financial advisor! Find out more by visiting mullaneyfinancial.com

Follow me on Twitter at @SeanMoneyandTax

Defending HDHPs

In the financial independence community and beyond, high deductible health plans (“HDHPs”) have received significant criticism. Few downplay the significant tax benefits of their tag-team partner, the health savings account. But some have written that the HSA sweetener is not sufficient to make high deductible health plans desirable.

Below I offer a different perspective. I write regarding the approach of anyone seeking financial independence, but I believe much of what is discussed below applies regardless of whether you are seeking financial independence.

One quick caveat: the below assumes that you are relatively healthy when you select your medical insurance, and that you expect that you will most likely remain so. For those with significant, chronic medical conditions, an HDHP is not likely to be a good medical insurance choice.

HDHP Critiques

High deductible health plans have been criticized by both the national media and by financial independence writers. Several studies have found that those covered by HDHPs tend to delay or forego needed medical assistance when compared with the population at large. This study found that those with HDHP insurance tend not to take advantage of free preventive services. Based on these study findings, there is a concern that the use of HDHPs can cause long term harm and worsen medical and health outcomes.

Financial Independence Mentality

Those actively seeking financial independence (“FIers”) embrace two beliefs. First, they believe they are not constrained by others’ failures. While FIers understand that others’ failures can be indicative of difficulties they themselves might face, FIers believe that with intentional action they can overcome those difficulties.

FI exists because people see what the “average” or “typical” person does (for example, a very low savings rate) and say, “wait a minute, I’m going to do something very different.” FIers acknowledge a societal trend and then pursue a different path with intention.

Second, FIers prioritize valuable purchases over immediate bottom-line results. Being financially independent (or seeking FI) frees you from the tyranny of any particular financial number when considering necessary expenses.

Health Insurance and Behavior

Your medical insurance should not determine whether you seek medical care. Only your current condition should determine whether you seek medical care. Assuming, only for the sake of argument, that the studies’ findings are correct, should those findings deter someone pursuing FI from using an HDHP as their medical insurance? I argue that they should not, for several reasons.

First, the studies probably did not include you. Why would you have a limiting belief about your own future behavior based on studies of other people? Even if you were in one of the studies and delayed or forwent necessary medical treatment, is it not possible that you could change your behavior?

Second, why not simply accept that cost will deter some people from obtaining needed medical assistance, but resolve that you will not act in such a shortsighted fashion. Many FIers seek to obtain financial assets of $1 million, $1.5 million, $2 million or more to fund the rest of their lives. Neither an unanticipated $300 medical expense nor an unanticipated $5,000 medical expense will derail your plans to achieve financial independence.

If you commit to FI, you are committing to acting very differently than most people when it comes to spending and saving. Why then would you believe you will act like the average study subject when it comes to obtaining medical treatment for a medical need?

Third, there is nothing preventing those with HDHPs from taking advantage of free preventive services. Many workers do not take advantage of the employer match to their 401(k). That outcome does not make a 401(k) a bad retirement plan. Rather, it illustrates that in many areas of life, people should be more intentional about taking advantage of what is offered to them. Suboptimal human behavior does not make 401(k)s and HDHPs bad, and others’ mistakes should not limit your insurance choices.

Finally, financial independence exists in part to make personal finances revolve around what needs to happen, and not to have what needs to happen revolve around personal finances. FIers ought to make medical care decisions based on their health, and not based on avoiding a medical bill that is ultimately minor in the grand scheme of things.

The Role of Insurance

What the studies appear to illustrate is a widespread misunderstanding of medical insurance. Insurance does not exist to determine whether you obtain medical assistance. Insurance exists to prevent financial ruin.

Might an unexpected medical situation be expensive if you have an HDHP? Yes, absolutely. But should it be ruinous? It should not be. Your annual out-of-pocket maximum for medical expenses will be high: imagine in your mind’s eye that it is $10,000. In the event of a medical calamity, you will pay $10,000 in expenses annually. Then your finances are protected.

Does an unexpected $10,000 expense hurt? Absolutely. But if your FI plan was to build $1.5 million in assets to fund the rest of your life, is not possible that you instead build $1.51 million in assets? Why would you put off necessary medical care to avoid a very slight increase in the assets you will need to build up to become financially independent? Are you much worse off in this situation than someone with zero-deductible medical insurance? Their “FI number” is $1.5 million; yours is $1.51 million.

You might argue “but might my insurance company deny my claim?” That is a valid concern with insurance. But it is a concern whether you have a gold-plated, zero-deductible insurance plan, an HDHP, or any other type of medical insurance. Thus, the possibility that you might have to fight with your insurance company to get an expense covered is not a reason to avoid HDHPs.

Risk/Reward Trade-off

When you use an HDHP, you assume additional risk. Put simply, you risk paying annual medical expenses up to the higher deductible. Two things should be noted about that risk. First, it is capped, as described above. A capped risk is the sort of risk that those building up assets should usually be willing to take on, as long as there is sufficient benefit to doing so.

Second, you are compensated for taking that risk. While your future annual medical expenses are uncertain, the benefits of using an HDHP are largely certain and immediate. Namely, they are:

Lower insurance premiums
Income and payroll tax savings (if the HSA is properly funded)
Employer contributions to the HSA on your behalf
Tax-deferred or (if withdrawn correctly) tax-free growth of the investments in the HSA

For taking on the risk of medical expenses up to the annual out-of-pocket maximum, there are two or three measurable, guaranteed benefits every pay period for using the HSA/HDHP combination. And while the fourth benefit can vary greatly (depending on the length of tax-free growth, future tax rates, etc.), it too is a significant benefit.

When evaluating an insurance plan, the risk/reward trade-offs and the costs are what should be evaluated. When comparing an HDHP with a lower deductible insurance plan, you must weigh the assumption of a speculative, capped risk in exchange for the benefits listed above. Based on the protection against very high annual medical expenses and the four benefits listed above, an HDHP appears to be, in many cases, a good risk/reward trade-off for those without expensive, chronic medical conditions.

Conclusion

The studies have not found that an HDHP is suboptimal from a risk trade-off perspective. Rather, they have found suboptimal consumer behavior. That’s where FI comes back in. FI is all about turning around suboptimal saving, investing, and consumer behavior and re-ordering financial priorities. Why shouldn’t obtaining necessary medical care be among the highest financial priorities? Why can’t you examine your own healthcare purchasing behavior and improve it?

There can be good reasons not to select an HDHP based upon your particular circumstances. Perhaps you have a chronic condition, you do not like the HDHP’s particular insurance carrier, and/or you do not believe the risk trade-off benefits are sufficient. But don’t eschew an HDHP because of a limiting belief about something under your own control: your behavior as a patient and medical consumer.

FI Tax Guy can be your financial planner! Find out more by visiting mullaneyfinancial.com

Follow me on Twitter: @SeanMoneyandTax

Health Savings Accounts

Health savings accounts (“HSAs”) are a tremendous wealth building tool. For healthy individuals and families, a health savings account paired with a high deductible health plan (“HDHP”) can be a great way to manage medical costs and grow tax advantaged wealth.

HSA Basics

A health savings account is a tax advantaged account. Contributions to an HSA are tax deductible. The interest, dividends, capital gains, and other income generated by assets in an HSA is not currently taxable (the same as with a 401(k) or IRA). If withdrawn for qualified medical expenses (or to reimburse the owner for the payment of qualified medical expenses), withdrawals from an HSA are not taxable.

The HSA combines the best of a traditional retirement account (deductible contributions) and the best of Roth retirement accounts (tax-free withdrawals) if done properly.

The annual HSA contribution limits (including both employer and employee/individual contributions) are $3,650 for an individual HDHP and $7,300 for a family HDHP in 2022. Those aged 55 or older can make annual catch-up contributions of an additional $1,000 to their HSA.

HSA Eligibility

Who is eligible to contribute to an HSA? Only those currently covered by a high deductible health plan. As a general matter, a high deductible health plan is medical insurance with an annual deductible of at least $1,400 (for individuals) or $2,800 (for families) (using 2021 numbers). The insurance plan document should specifically state that the plan qualifies as a high deductible health plan. You must be covered on the first day of the month in order to contribute to a HSA in that month.

Once you cease to be covered by a HDHP, you keep your HSA and can use the money in it. The only thing you lose is the ability to make further contributions to the HSA.

HDHPs may not be a good insurance plan if you have certain chronic medical conditions or otherwise anticipate having high medical expenses. But if you are relatively healthy, HDHPs often make sense, particularly if you are young.

There are some other eligibility requirements. Those also covered by other medical insurance plans, those enrolled in Medicare, and those who can be claimed as a dependent on someone else’s tax return are not eligible to contribute to a HSA.

Benefits of an HSA

Tastes Great and Less Filling

If done right, an HSA is a super-charged tax advantaged account. You get a deduction on the front end (when the money is contributed to the HSA), tax free growth, and no taxation if the money is used for qualified medical expenses or to reimburse the owner for qualified medical expenses.

There’s no need to debate traditional versus Roth with an HSA. If done right, you get both!

HSA Payroll Tax Benefit

As a tax planner, this is one of my favorite benefits. There are many ways to legally reduce income taxes. Reducing payroll taxes, on the other hand, is more difficult.

If you fund your HSA through payroll withholding, amounts contributed to the HSA are excluded from your salary for purposes of determining your Social Security and Medicare taxes. This results in saving on payroll taxes. HSA contributions enjoy this benefit while 401(k) elective deferrals do not.

Note that to qualify for the HSA payroll tax break, you must contribute to your HSA through payroll withholding. If, instead, you contribute through a direct personal contribution to your HSA, you do not get to deduct the contribution from your Social Security and Medicare taxable income, though you still get a federal income tax deduction for such contributions.

Employer Contributions

Many employers offer a contribution to your HSA account. Often these employer contributions are a flat amount, such as $650 or $700 annually. This amounts to essentially free money given to you in a tax advantaged manner.

Lower Insurance Costs

A great benefit of the combination of HDHPs and HSAs is lower medical insurance premium payments. By insuring with an HDHP, you usually save significant amounts on medical insurance.

The healthier you are and the wealthier you are, the less financial protection you need against unanticipated medical expenses. Thus, HDHPs are often a good option for those fortunate enough to be relatively healthy and/or wealthy.

Higher deductibles reduce the premium. The trade-off is that you self-fund more of your medical expenses. If those medical expenses are modest, the combination of saving on insurance premiums and the tax benefits can more than make up for the (potentially) higher medical expenses.

HSA Reimbursements

Take note of when you first establish your HSA. Qualifed medical expenses incurred on that date or later can be reimbursed from your HSA.

Why is this important? Because if you track your qualified medical expenses, you can build up years of expenses that you can reimburse yourself, tax-free, from your HSA. There is no time limit to pay yourself a tax-free reimbursement from your HSA. Here is an example:

Keith established an HSA in 2011, when he was 30 years old. In 2015, he had a medical procedure and his total qualified medical expenses were $4,000. In 2018, Keith had $500 worth of qualified medical expenses for two medical appointments. In 2019, Keith had $3,500 in qualified medical expenses for a procedure and various doctors’ appointments.

Assuming Keith had sufficient funds in taxable accounts when he incurred these expenses, Keith should (a) use those taxable funds to pay his medical expenses, (b) track his qualified medical expenses, and (c) after the money has had many years of tax-free growth, Keith should reimburse himself from his HSA for some or all of these $8,000 worth of qualified medical expenses.

Unless you are financially strapped or in a dire medical situation, you should strive to use taxable funds to pay current medical expenses and allow the funds in your HSA to enjoy years, possibly decades, of tax-free growth. With no time limit on HSA reimbursements, you can access the funds later in life tax-free.

Note, however, that in the relatively rare cases where a taxpayer deducts medical expenses on their income tax return, expenses paid with HSA money cannot be deducted. In addition, if you have previously deducted medical expenses, those expenses are not “qualified medical expenses” that can be reimbursed tax-free from an HSA. Deducing medical expenses is rare because you can only deduct medical expenses if (i) you itemize your deductions and (ii) to the extent your medical expenses exceed 7.5 percent of your adjusted gross income (“AGI”).

No RMDs

Every tax advantaged retirement account (other than the Roth IRA) is subject to required minimum distributions (“RMDs”) during the account owner’s lifetime. HSAs, fortunately, are not subject to RMDs. They provide incredible flexibility for your financial future, particularly when you carefully track your reimbursable qualified medical expenses for many years.

Qualified Medical Expenses

Qualified medical expenses are generally those expenses that qualify for the medical expense deduction. While this itself could be its own blog post, you can look to IRS Publication 502, which details which expenses qualify.

Some items that you might not immediately think of, but are qualified medical expenses, are COBRA insurance premiums and Medicare Part B, Part D, and Medicare Advantage premiums. So if you ever pay COBRA premiums, it is great to pay them out of taxable accounts and keep a tally of the payments you made. Years later you can reimburse yourself for those premiums tax-free from your HSA (assuming you established the HSA prior to paying the COBRA premiums and you did not claim the COBRA premiums as an itemized deduction).

Taxation of Non-Medical Withdrawals

If you are under age 65, withdrawals from HSAs that are not used for qualified medical expenses are subject to income tax and subject to an early withdrawal penalty of 20 percent.

If you are under age 65, you can avoid these harsh tax results for an HSA withdrawal if you can find prior qualified medical expenses you can reimburse yourself for, and apply the withdrawal against those prior expenses. If such expenses do not exist, you can roll the money back into the HSA within 60 days (a 60-day rollover). Note you are limited to only one 60-day rollover during any 12 month period.

If you are age 65 or older, you are no longer subject to the 20 percent early withdrawal penalty. Withdrawals that are not for qualified medical expenses (or reimbursements thereof) are subject to income tax (in the same way a traditional IRA withdrawal would be).

At age 65, an HSA remains an HSA and also becomes an optional IRA (in effect) without RMDs. This, combined with the ability to use HSA funds to pay Medicare Part B, Part D, and Medicare Advantage premiums tax-free, make an HSA a great account to own if you are age 65 or older.

The Biggest HSA Mistake

Think twice before taking money out of an HSA!

An HSA and the investments in it can be analogized to an oven and a turkey. The HSA is like the oven. The investments are like the turkey. Putting the turkey in the oven is great. But it needs sufficient time to roast. If you take the turkey out of the oven too soon, you spoil it! The investments in your HSA are similar. They need time to bake tax-free in the HSA. If you take them out too soon, you spoil it!

Only the elderly, the financially strapped, and those facing medical emergencies and crises should withdraw HSA funds. Everyone else should keep money in an HSA to grow tax-free. If you are not in one of three listed categories, you should think long and hard before paying medical expenses with HSA money.

Why waste the tremendous tax benefits of an HSA for minor, non-emergency medical expenses? Doing so is the biggest HSA mistake. Pay those expenses out of pocket, track them, and years later reimburse yourself tax-free from your HSA after the funds have grown tax-free for decades!

The only potential way to correct this mistake is to do a 60-day rollover of the withdrawn amounts back into an HSA. Note that rollovers are limited to one per any 12 month period. Other than the 60-day rollover, the mistake is not correctable.

The Second Biggest HSA Mistake

The second biggest HSA mistake is not investing a significant percentage of your HSA funds in equities and/or bonds. According to this report, only four percent of HSAs had balances invested in something other than cash as of the end of 2017. Not good!

While I never provide investment advice on the blog, I do discuss the tax location of assets, in a general sense (not as applied to any particular investor). Cash is not a great asset to hold in an HSA. With today’s low interest rates, cash generates little in interest income. HSAs offer tax-free interest, dividends, capital gains, and growth! That makes them great for high growth, high income assets. Why waste that incredibly favorable tax treatment on very low-yielding cash?

I call this the second biggest mistake (not the first) because unlike the first mistake, this mistake is easily correctable.

Of course, investors must evaluate their HSA investment options and their own individual circumstances to determine if the other investments are preferable to cash based on their particular circumstances.

State Treatment of HSAs

Two states do not recognize HSAs: California and New Jersey. For purposes of these two states, HSAs are simply taxable accounts. On California and New Jersey state income tax returns (a) there is no deduction/exclusion for HSA contributions, (b) interest, dividends, and capital gain distributions generated by HSA assets are taxable, (c) sales of assets in a HSA generate taxable capital gains and losses, and (d) nonqualifying withdrawals of money from an HSA have no tax consequence.

Tennessee and New Hampshire do not impose a conventional income tax. But they do tax residents on interest and dividends above certain levels. Interest and dividends generated by HSAs are included in the interest and dividends subject to those taxes.

HSAs and Death

This is the good news/bad news section of the article.

First, the good news: HSAs are great assets to leave (through a beneficiary designation form) to a spouse or to a charity. If you leave your HSA to your spouse, he or she inherits it as an HSA and can use it (and benefit from it) just as you did. Charities also make for great HSA beneficiaries. They can use the money in the account and pay no tax on it. You will need to work with your financial institution to ensure the beneficiary designation form properly captures the charity as the intended beneficiary.

The bad news: HSAs are terrible assets to leave to anyone else. If you leave an HSA to a non-spouse/non-charity, the recipient includes the entire balance of the HSA in their taxable income in the year of your death.

Conclusion

With a little planning, an HSA can be a great asset to own, and can provide tremendous tax-free benefits. Generally speaking, time is a great asset if you own an HSA. Let your HSA bake tax-free for many years and you will be happy to receive tax-free money later in life to pay for medical expenses or as a reimbursement for many years of previous medical expenses.

FI Tax Guy can be your financial planner! Find out more by visiting mullaneyfinancial.com

Follow me on Twitter: @SeanMoneyandTax

Tax Efficient Estate Planning

THIS POST HAS NOT BEEN UPDATED FOR THE SECURE ACT, WHICH WAS ENACTED IN LATE 2019.

If you have significant assets, you need an estate plan. A good estate plan makes handling the financial aspects of your death much easier for your loved ones and creates the opportunity for multiple generation wealth creation.

For most, the need for good estate plan is not about the estate tax. Very few Americans, particularly very few actively seeking financial independence, will be subject to the federal estate tax, as there is now (as of 2019) a $11.4 million estate tax exemption. Thus, only the very largest of estates will pay the federal estate tax. For purposes of this post, assume that all estates are below this threshold.

If you are aren’t subject to the estate tax, why do you need to make a tax efficient estate plan? The answer is the income tax considerations of your heirs and beneficiaries. Some assets cause your heirs and beneficiaries to have very little or no additional income tax. Other assets can cause a significant increase in the income tax burdens of your heirs and beneficiaries. Below I analyze each of the tax baskets and discuss the estate planning considerations for each one.

Being that the FI community generally aims to build up significant assets to achieve financial independence, good estate planning is particularly important if you are on the road to (or have achieved) financial independence.

A quick caveat at the beginning – tax is only one consideration in estate planning. There are many others, including the needs of spouses, children, and other potential heirs, and the desires of the donor. Below I offer thoughts on tax optimal estate planning — of course the tax considerations need to be balanced with other estate planning objectives.

Spouses

A quick note on leaving assets to spouses. Generally speaking, the tax laws favor leaving assets to spouses. A spouse is a tax-preferred heir in most situations (the main exception being leaving retirement accounts to younger beneficiaries with low RMDs). As the focus of this post is passing wealth to the second generation efficiently, most of the discussion, other than a few asides, will not address the tax consequences when leaving an asset to a spouse.

Tax Baskets

Below are the four main tax baskets (tax categories in which individuals can hold assets):

Traditional (a/k/a Deductible) Retirement Accounts: These include workplace plans such as the 401(k), the 403(b), the 457, and the TSP, and IRAs. Under ideal conditions, the contributions, when earned, are not taxed but the contributions and earnings are taxed when later withdrawn.
Roth Retirement Accounts: These include workplace plans such as the Roth 401(k), the Roth 403(b), and the Roth TSP, and Roth IRAs. Under ideal conditions, the contributions, when earned, are taxed but the contributions and earnings are tax-free when later withdrawn.
Health Savings Accounts: HSAs are tax-advantaged accounts only available to you if you have a high deductible health plan (a “HDHP”) as your health insurance. Under ideal conditions, the contributions, when earned, are not taxed and the contributions and earnings are tax-free when later withdrawn.
Taxable Accounts: Holding financial assets in your own name or otherwise not in a tax-advantaged account (tax baskets 1 through 3). The basic concept is taxable in, taxable on “realized” earnings (rental income, business income, dividends, interest, etc.) while in the account, and partially taxable (value less “tax basis”) on the way out.

Baskets 1 through 3 require “ideal conditions” (i.e., compliance with the related tax rules) to operate as outlined above. Let’s assume for purposes of this post that no errors are made with respect to the account in question.

Traditional Accounts

Of the four tax baskets, traditional accounts are often (from a tax perspective) the worst kind to leave to a spouse and the third worst to leave to non-spouse heirs. Why? Because traditional accounts, through required minimum distributions (“RMDs”), are eventually going to be entirely taxable to your beneficiaries and/or their beneficiaries. Non-spouse beneficiaries generally must take RMDs in the year following the donor’s death.

When passing traditional accounts to the next generation(s), a general rule of thumb is younger beneficiaries are better for such accounts, because the younger the beneficiary, the smaller their earlier RMDs, and thus the lower the tax hit of the RMD and the longer the tax-deferred growth.

Spousal beneficiaries, unlike non-spouse beneficiaries, have the option to delay RMDs until the year they turn 70 ½. However, once they turn 70 ½ they will be required to take taxable RMDs, increasing their taxable income.

For charitably inclined, traditional accounts (or portions thereof) are a great asset to leave to charity. As you will see, your individual beneficiaries would prefer to inherit Roth accounts (and in most cases will prefer to inherit taxable accounts), but the charity is generally indifferent to the tax basket of an asset, because charities pay no income tax. So all other things being equal, if you have money in traditional accounts, Roth accounts, and taxable accounts, the first money you should leave to a charity should be from your traditional accounts.

Lastly, whatever your plans, you are well advised to ensure that all your traditional, Roth, and HSA accounts have valid beneficiary designation forms on file with the employer plan or financial institution.

Roth Accounts

Roth accounts are fantastic accounts to inherit for both spouses and non-spouses. While non-spouses must take RMDs from the inherited Roth account in the year following death, the RMD is non-taxable to them. All beneficiaries benefit from tax-free growth of assets while they are in an inherited Roth account. This makes spouses (able to defer RMDs until age 70 ½) and younger beneficiaries ideal (from a tax perspective) to inherit Roth accounts.

Roth conversions are a potential strategy to save your heirs income tax. If you believe your heirs will have a higher marginal income tax rate than you do, and you do not need the tax on the Roth conversion, you can convert amounts in traditional accounts to Roth accounts, pay the tax, and lower the overall tax burden incurred by you and your family.

Health Savings Accounts

There are two, and only two, ideal people to leave an HSA to – your spouse or a charity. Spouses and charities are the only ones who do not pay tax immediately on an HSA in the year of death.

Unfortunately for non-spouse, non-charity beneficiaries, the entire account becomes taxable income to the beneficiary in the year of death and loses its status as an HSA. This can cause a significant one-time spike in marginal tax rates and cause the beneficiary to lose (to federal and state income taxes) a significant amount of the HSA. This makes the HSA the worst tax basket to leave to non-spouse, non-charitable beneficiaries.

Spouses are allowed to continue the HSA as their own HSA, and thus can use it to grow tax-free wealth that can cover (or reimburse) qualified medical expenses.

If you are charitably inclined and unmarried, the HSA should be the first account you consider leaving some or all of to charity.

Taxable Accounts

Taxable accounts, including real estate and securities, are generally good assets to leave to beneficiaries because of the so-called “step-up” in basis. As a general matter, when a person dies, their heirs inherit assets in taxable accounts with a “stepped-up” basis. This gives the heirs a basis of the fair market value of the property on the date of death.

As a result, a beneficiary can generally sell inherited assets shortly after receiving them and incur relatively little, if any, capital gains tax.

A couple of additional notes. First, leaving appreciated taxable assets at death to heirs is much better than gifting such assets to heirs during your life. A quick example: William lives in a house he purchased in 1970 for $50,000. In 2019 the house is worth $950,000. If William gifts the house to his son Alan in 2019, Alan’s basis in the house is $50,000. However, if William leaves the house to Alan at William’s death, Alan’s basis in the house will be the fair market value of the house at William’s death.

Second, the step-up in basis at death benefits spouses in both “common law” states and community property states. In all states, separately held property receives a full step up in basis when inherited by a spouse. For residents of common law states, jointly held property receives a half step-up – the deceased spouse’s portion is receives a step-up in basis while the surviving spouse’s half does not. For residents in community property states, the entirety of community property receives a full basis step-up at the death of one spouse.

Conclusion

Generally speaking, in most cases spouses will prefer to inherit assets in the following order:

Roth
HSA
Taxable
Traditional

In most cases, non-spouses will prefer to inherit assets in the following order:

Roth
Taxable
Traditional
HSA

The best two tax baskets to leave to charities are HSAs and traditional accounts.

You can obtain significant tax benefits for your heirs by being intentional regarding which tax baskets you leave to which beneficiaries. Some relatively simple estate planning can save your heirs a significant amount of federal and state income tax.

FI Tax Guy can be your financial advisor! FI Tax Guy can prepare your tax return! Find out more by visiting mullaneyfinancial.com

Follow me on Twitter at @SeanMoneyandTax

This post is for entertainment and educational purposes only. It does not constitute accounting, financial, legal, or tax advice. Please consult with your advisor(s) regarding your personal accounting, financial, legal, and tax matters.